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Laurel Heights It Is

Laurel HeightsWe received dozens of emails in response to the most recent Daybreak contest. Most answers were correct -- the photo was indeed of the Laurel Heights campus. Unfortunately, we only give prizes to the first three contestants to respond correctly. Barbara Jim-George, Martha Reney and Bill Bowen will each receive a Daybreak mug.

Currently, approximately 500 UCSF employees occupy the Laurel Heights building. The population there should reach 1,200 when the remaining construction is complete in just over one year. Upon completion, Laurel Heights will accommodate 35 new departments, with the Center for Social and Behavioral Policy Studies as the primary tenant. In addition, various units within the Schools of Medicine and Pharmacy, the office of the Vice Chancellor for Administration, and the office of Auxiliary Services have been assigned space.

Check Daybreak next week for another chance to win. In the meantime, here's a look at the rather interesting (and some might say, haunted) history of Laurel Heights, as borrowed from the UCSF Journal, April 1985:

UCSF officially became the owner of the Laurel Heights building, formerly known as the Fireman's Fund building, at California and Presidio Streets on February 15, 1985.

This intersection has been a spark of controversy ever since the 1860s, when Mark Twain, in a Territorial Enterprise editorial, lambasted an avaricious undertaker for his practice of charging the corpse to pass through the toll gate to Laurel Hill Cemetery.

"If you or I owned that toll road," Twain wrote, "we would be satisfied with the revenue from a long funeral procession." But here, he continued, "If a corpse starts to Paradise or perdition by their road he has got to pay his toll or else switch off and take some other route."

The pastoral 160-acre Laurel Hill was the 19th century ideal of what a cemetery should be. UCSF now occupies 10 of those acres. The old cemetery stretched all the way to Lone Mountain, where the premium view plots were too expensive for any but the wealthiest and most prestigious. For in those days -- when a man's station in life followed him into the afterworld -- Laurel Hill too was tightly fragmented into socioeconomic and ethnic neighborhoods. There were the working people's quarters in the less desirable flatlands, dotted by plain wood markers; the Chinese burial ground divided by picket fences into company lots; and a trimly manicured acreage reserved for members of the city's volunteer fire companies.

It was a popular place for family outings, Laurel Hill, with its rambling pathways, grassy valleys and slopes, flowers, woods alive with warblers, and hidden springs. By 1900, when city officials halted further burials, 38,000 of San Francisco's past figures and founders lay in its grounds, including Hugh H. Toland, one of UCSF's founding fathers.

But the land became too valuable to remain a mere resting place, situated as it was between a pulsing young port city and the younger, still growing residential district of the Richmond. Real estate developers were offering top prices to city administrators who, in 1912, evicted all dead from the premises. The three adjoining cemeteries - the Catholic, Masonic and Odd Fellows - moved on without a fuss, but the fight to conserve Laurel Hill's pioneers for posterity went on for another 30 years.

Finally, in the 1940s, the movement to create a Pioneer Memorial Park was quelled for good. All remains were unearthed and removed -- mostly southward to Colma's Cypress Lawns.

Headstones grand and small were recycled into sculptor's blocks, gutters for Buena Vista Park and breakwaters along the Marina shores.

After World War II, houses coated Laurel Hill, except for the four-block corner parcel at California and Presidio, which city officials kept for a future high school. When they decided to build the school elsewhere, they offered the land for sale and -- not unpredictably -- tried to raise its value by rezoning it for commercial use.

A new wave of people, hundreds of recently arrived property owners, fought to save Laurel Hill and the residential quality of their neighborhood. In a compromise plan, the corner was given restricted commercial classification, permitting occupation by "an office building, medical center, or similar profession." Fireman's Fund Insurance Company bought it in 1953 and moved into the building four years later.

The east windows overlook the site of the old Laurel Hill toll gate, which Mark Twain's undertaker watched through the shrubbery one day as he rubbed his hands in happy anticipation of fresh profits from the long procession just making its way through. "I must go and cache this party!" he said. Then, he "skipped lightly away to offer the dismal hospitalities of his establishment to the unconscious visitor in the hearse."

Links to previous contest answers:

1st appeared 2/20/98

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